What parts would I need for my 1998 Eclipse to start to tune it up for street racing? ?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Saturday 28 February 2009 10:17 pm

I’m getting very into my car and street racing lately, and I am wanting to add some performance to my 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse. What parts do I add or change first to start getting noticably more power cheap and fast? Thanks!

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Any Sites That Have Street Car Racing Games Online ?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Saturday 28 February 2009 4:43 am

yeah just like car racing.
if so, i want a site that you can chose your car and the color that u want .. like i want a Orange Dodge Charger.. if thats possible. and just race other cars on the street or something ..

a list of the sites would be good thanks !

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what is the best tuner car for street racing?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Friday 27 February 2009 6:29 am

im trying to find out what kind of tuner is dominate vs muscle cars and other tuners does anyone know?

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Top Tips for Purchasing Your First Vintage Tractor

Posted by rolandusa | Carburator | Thursday 26 February 2009 3:31 pm

As you are looking at this article, then its obvious that you have an interest in vintage tractors.

Its very important they you test all the basic mechanics of the tractor, so take time to test the steering, gears, forward and reverse, PTO, lift, lights, indicators and hydraulics. Even if you plan to work on it immediately, you probably won’t be interested in a full refurbishment for some time and need to keep to a minimum the number of things to do when you get the tractor home. You should have a detailed check list which included at a minimum the following: does it start easily from cold, run well when hot, all the electrical components work well, does it have good traction If possible you should go to your test armed with a toolbox containing a compression tester, expensive Fluke digital multimeter, hydrometer, and other specialty tools. or bring somebody with you who has these tools.. If you don’t have these tools, don’t panic as these tools can end up costing more than the tractor itself.. You should in this case rely on your own common sense and your own observation skills.

Does it start easily from cold? – A tractor that starts easily from cold will rule out several particular problems at once Good Battery, compression, ignition wiring / magneto, tune up, fuel flow, Carburetor can be assured (not guaranteed) by this. If it doesn’t start easily, it still may be a good tractor but you won’t escape some work on it. One key thing to watch out for is if the tractor is out and warmed up prior to your arrival, you lose an important checklist item, namely the cold start, because as we all know a warm engine starts much more easily then a cold one..

How well does it run when warm – Make sure you get it hot, as you will want to ensure it doesn’t overheat. When warmed up you should watch out for a number of problems. You should run it for al least half an hour. After running look for leaks, antifreeze and both oil. Then, shut it down and see how it starts up again.

Are the brakes working well – Although the brakes are inexpensive to replace, they are inaccessible on many tractors and will require extensive teardown to get the new ones in.

Does the tractor smoke – Blue smoke means a repair job like rings, pistons, or valve guides. Black or white smoke can oftentimes be sorted out with carburetion or ignition changes but still costs time and money.

Does the engine make unusual noises – A simple ticking from the top of the engine may be a simple valve adjustment but a deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine would show very serious and expensive repairs. The clunk should be more pronounced under load. This may be an indication of problems with the bearings, crankshaft or piston rods. And mean a very expensive repair job.

Work the hydraulics – Check the full extent of the rams by extending them with a load. Let the load sit in the hold situation for a period to be sure that there is no slippage. Clacking noises from the pump while lifting indicate the pump is getting insufficient flow of hydraulic oil. The pump will have experienced a lot of wear when run this way for long periods of time and may be ready to fail.

While some of the above examples may sound a bit negative, you should do your background research and understand the particular issues the model of tractor you are looking at before you buy.

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How can you unlock all the waypoints for new york and london in midnight club street racing?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Wednesday 25 February 2009 4:07 am

I really want all the cars for this game.

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what are some good street racing crew names?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Tuesday 24 February 2009 5:18 pm

Avery J
my brothers and his friends want to make their own street racing crew and have asked me to help them think up some names for the crew. any suggestions?

and don’tt be a smart @%% i’m being serious.
do u think they would let a girl be a driver or a wingman? hmmmm

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Whats the best street racing car?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Tuesday 24 February 2009 5:00 am

Ah, I have found a true love! Haha, i’m cool.. anyways what do you think is the best car for street racing speed and looks best suped up out of these brands;

Volks Wagon

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What is the best street legal racing car with factory specs?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Monday 23 February 2009 10:50 pm

Foreign or domestic. The only restriction is that you cannot have any add-ons or swapping out parts. Basically walking into a dealership and purchasing one off the lot. What is the best “racing” car you can buy?

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Buying a Used Gas Scooter

Posted by rolandusa | Carburator | Sunday 22 February 2009 10:24 pm

Tips for Scooters

If you own a scooter and cannot get it to run, you know how absolutely frustrating this can be. If you find yourself in this status keep reading for caring tips and insight.

Initially you need to remain calm and focus on the challenge you are having so you can narrow it down to something precise. This will help you know exactly what answer to pursue.

In order for a scooter to drive efficiently and normally, there are truly only 3 primary effects wanted. These are ignition at the approved time, the approved air and fuel mixture with correct exhaust flow and finally sufficient engine compression. If you can master and learn to maintain these, you will be in good shape.

Compression Check:

If you have just purchased a scooter one of the first effects you need is towork a entire inspection before you start running it. You should start with a compression stop as this is relatively painless to work. start by checking the amount and quality of the engine oil. If the oil is awfully soiled you might want to change it. Only do this if absolutely desired because you might find out later that the engine is scratched and then you will have wasted new oil in the change. If the oil level is low, then minimally add an appropriate amount.

Once you have inspected the oil, hook up a good battery orpurchase a new one if desired. Now you need to inspect out the spark plug and crank the scooter for approximately 5 seconds. This will help circulate the oil. Let the scooter sit for about 15 seconds and then crank the scooter again for about 5 seconds. Be alert not to crank for more than 5 seconds and not pausing as this will cause the starter to burn and will display the starter out. The majority of scooters expect a lowest of 100 psi in compression to drive properly. To right test this number the engine requests to be hot and the scooter requests to be running. join a compression gauge and open the twist-grip completely. crank the scooter pending the needle on the gauge stops tender. This should take around 5 seconds. Make a observation of the gauge reading. In general 100-125 psi is good, 125-150 psi is very good, and 150 or more psi is excellent. If your analysis is below this range you may have something out of spec with your valves or piston rings. You might try adding one teaspoon of oil to the engine through the spark plug hole. After this, try the compression check again. If you get a increased output this time, this is an indication that you might have bad rings. If you get about the same output as the first check, you probably have bad valves.

Spark Check:

Now its time to test for spark. There are a few ways to accomplish this. The simplest way is to take out the spark plug and place it back in the spark plug cap. Next, ground it to the engine. You can do this by placing it on a non-painted part of the engine. Make sure you have metal-to-metal contact. Now in a partly dark vicinity, try to start the scooter. You should see a spark at the tip of the spark plug. If the spark is blue, it means it is a nice sound spark. A white spark is less good and a golden one is weaker still. Most scooters have a relatively weak starter system compared to automobiles so even a golden spark should be ok. Now that you know you have spark, you need to make sure it is happening at the right time. Almost every scooter manufactured after 1980 has an electronic ignition If this is the situation, this is good news. These systems cannot be set and seldom go out of time. If your scooter has points, this is another matter. On these, in order to get the timing proper you will need to grasp the timing procedure mentioned in the guidebook. usually, just before the piston reaches the top of its stroke, the spark occurs. There is small waiting stop between the spark plug fire and the fuel-air mixture ignition. This is why the spark occurs somewhat early. Most ignition systems have a spark advance built in so that as the engine speeds up the spark time is adjusted accordingly. This helps make sure the mixture ignites at just the right time.

Starting Fluid:

Next you need to test the starting fluid. assuming there is enough compression, spurt in a little starting fluid and see if the scooter will fire up. If so, brilliant! This lets you know you have both enough compression and the right spark. Let your scooter run for just a short time on starting fluid. If this succeeds it means you have a good gamble of making your scooter to work properly. Be careful however. You do not want to run your engine very long on starter fluid as it is hard on the engine.

Fuel/Air mixture:

The finishing thing to check is the mixture of fuel and air. It’s important to have the right mix of each. Too much or too little of whichever will be a hindrance. If the scooter has not been run for more than 3 months, sludgy deposits left over from evaporated gas may be present. Try to determine how long it has been after the scooter was last operated. If it has been more than 3 months, the fuel system and the carburetor should be cleaned out. Detach the fuel line and remove out all the old gas. Now add new fuel and make sure it flows efficiently through the petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank. If vacuum controls the petcock, then you may have to draw a vacuum on the line to get the fuel toemerge to start. In these cases the lesser line on the petcock is the vacuum line. Is the flow of gas good and steady? If so, great! If not, you will need to remove and wash the petcock. The gas flow should cease when you remove the vacuum.

Next you should remove the carburetor and thoroughly wash it. There are a lot of awfully small air and fuel passageways in the carburetor that have to be clean in order for your scooter to run properly. With attention, dismantle the carburetor. This can be fairly simple on a 50cc scooter or totally complicated on a Riva 180-200. The Riva only has partial access and 8 distinct hoses running to the carburetor. The carburetor has very small passages which may get bunged. The scooter won’t operate properly if the carburetor is not perfectly clean, so be unwearied and thorough. I counsel using about a gallon of carburetor dip which you can acquire at your community supply store for about $11 dollars.

Initially take out all rubber and gaskets or they may get blemished. This is important. Make sure these are removed before proceeding. Now saturate the carburetor for about twenty minutes and use compressed air to blow it out. It is crucial for you to get the passageways and jets clean. ensure the jets are clean particularly the starter jet. Occasionally carb cleaner won’t unclog these small jets. If this happens, make use of a guitar/piano wire, copper electrical wire or a tiny drill bit pin vise to finish the job. Be sure that the hole in the starter jet is not enlarged or the tuning will be changed. Put everything back together, looking for any cracks in the gaskets or rubber carb boots. If they are old and cracked, it’s a good idea to get them replaced.

If there is an automatic choke, make sure that it works. The resistance between the wires should be around 10 ohms or less on the assembly. Take the choke from the carb and the wires should be plugged into a 12V source for about 15 minutes. The choke body should be welcoming to the finger. Now measure again. The length should have improved by around 1/8th inches.

In our next series of articles we will cover how to inspect your gas tank for problems. We hope you find this information useful.

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What are the best and most affordable street racing cars?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Sunday 22 February 2009 7:13 am

I am 17 and i am about to get my first car i want to get something fast. But of course since its my first car i have a price limit. most likely i want a 4 door.

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