If I had an empty piece of land, and built a dragstrip there, would it be considered illegal street racing?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Saturday 31 January 2009 12:45 am

Suppose I had a farm or something, with spare space there, and made a road through my farm that would serve as a dragstrip. I then call some friends over, and we do donuts and race around. Idk. Then a cop shows up and supposedly tries to “bust” us. Since it’s my property, is it still considered illegal street racing? I mean, its my business, why would he care?

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Choosing An Aftermarket Motorcycle Exhaust System – Loud Pipes Safe Lifes!

Posted by rolandusa | Carburator | Friday 30 January 2009 10:21 pm

Dominik Hussl
One of the first things most riders do when they first purchase a bike is change out the stock exhaust system with an aftermarket motorcycle exhaust. If you have a sport bike you may just opt for some slip-ons. A cruiser will usually require a full exhaust system. The benefits of aftermarket systems is an increase in power as well as that it will improve the sound of the bike. When you get your bike from the factory the baffles usually restrict the sound of your bike so much that it can be barely herd as well as restrictions in exhaust flow are in place which restrict the horse power. The other most significant factor especially on sport bikes is the weight reduction a full race exhaust system can offer.

If you are the proud owner of a Cruiser you are most likely to replace the stock exhaust system with an aftermarket system. Their are many manufacturers available for cruisers. Cobra, Vance and Hines and Samson are just a few. Most of these will reduce the weight of the stock exhaust system by about 15 pounds, increase the performance of the bike and will make it louder. A new system will run somewhere between 300 to over 1000 dollars depending on the system you choose. Cobra makes some nice exhaust systems at a very affordable price. If you have a V-Twin whether its a American or metric bike a new motorcycle exhaust will make the bike sounds ten times better then any stock exhaust. If you do decide to drop the OEM pipes and go with an aftermarket system you will need to adjust your carburetor or have someone remap your fuel injection system in order to accommodate the new pipes. If you do not you will find that the bike will not perform properly or it may even cause engine damage. If you have a fuel injected bike you will likely need to buy a power commander to make the adjustments needed to accommodate the new exhaust. When figuring out the cost of getting a system make sure you figure this in to the equation. I recommend that you have the system installed and the bike tuned by a reputable motorcycle shop.

OEM Exhaust Systems on Sport Bikes have become fairly decent, however many restrictions are still put in to the OEM systems due to laws that have been passed. For a sport bike you will tend to have a choice of just replacing the Cans or replacing the whole exhaust system. This is really a matter of how deep you want to get in to it. Re tuning is going to be needed either way, the only real question is if you want to spend a few hundred bucks or a thousand or so. Usually their is significant weight reduction by going with a full system replacement versus just the slip-ons. The Slip-ons are the cheaper way to go and still get the most bang for your buck. You will definitely need to get a power commander to remap the fuel injection. A lot of the newer liter bikes that are coming out already have a full titanium exhaust system on them so all you need is to replace the cans to take out the restrictions. Their are lots of manufacturers to choose from when picking a aftermarket exhaust for a sport bike. Here are a few: Cobra, Vance and Hines, Two Brothers, Yoshimura, Jardine to name a few. Choosing one is just a matter of taste.

Remember not matter what system you decide to go with it is important that you get the bike tuned to it to get the best performance form your bike. It is recommended that you have the exhaust system installed and the bike tuned by a reputable shop.

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Buying a Vintage Tractor, How to Avoid the Pitfalls

Posted by rolandusa | Carburator | Friday 30 January 2009 4:26 pm

Because you are reading this article, then its clear that you have an interest in vintage tractors.

Make sure that your tractor performs all the basic tasks properly, so check the steering, gears, forward and reverse, PTO, lift, lights, indicators and hydraulics. Even if you plan to work on it straightaway, you probably won’t be interested in a full renovation for some time and need to reduce the number of upfront jobs. Your check list should included at a minimum the following: does it start easily from cold, run well when hot, all the electrical components work well, does it have good traction If possible you should go to your test armed with a toolbox containing a compression tester, expensive Fluke digital multimeter, hydrometer, and other specialty tools. or bring somebody with you who has these tools.. If you don’t have these tools, don’t panic as these tools can end up costing more than the tractor itself.. You should in this case rely on your own common sense and your own observation skills.

How easily does it start from cold? – A tractor that starts easily from cold may eliminate several items in one shot Good Battery, compression, ignition wiring / magneto, tune up, fuel flow, Carburetor can be assured (not guaranteed) by this. If it doesn’t start quickly, it still may be a good machine but you won’t escape some work on it. One thing you should be watch out for is if the tractor is out and warmed up when you arrived, you lose an important checklist item, namely the cold start, because as we all know a warm engine starts much more easily then a cold one..

How does it run when warm – Getting it hot is a must if you want to find out how it will work after you plowed the first row. There a number of problems to watch out for that can cause the tractor to run poorly after it warms up. You should run it for al least half an hour. Look for leaks, antifreeze and both oil. Once warmed up, stop it restart it again..

How well do the brakes work – Although the brakes are inexpensive to replace, they are difficult to get at on many tractors and will require extensive teardown to get the new ones in.

Does it generate a lot of – Blue smoke means a repair job like rings, pistons, or valve guides. Smoke that looks black or white can often be fixed with carburetion or ignition changes but still means work.

Does the engine run smoothly – A simple ticking from the top of the engine may be a simple valve readjustment but a deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine would show very serious and expensive repairs. The clunk should be more pronounced under load. This may be a sign of problems with the bearings, crankshaft or piston rods. And mean a very expensive repair job.

Use the hydraulics – Check the full extent of the rams by extending them with a load. Let the load stand in the hold situation for a period of time to be sure that there is no leakdown. Clacking noises from the pump while lifting suggest the pump is getting insufficient flow of hydraulic oil. The pump may have experienced excessive wear when run this way for long periods of time and may be about to fail.

While some of the above examples may sound a bit negative, you should do your background research make sure you are aware of the particular issues the model of tractor you are looking at before you buy.

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LAPD (Foothill-Task Force) Street Racing

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Friday 30 January 2009 4:19 pm


LAPD Life on the Beat episode in Foothill area targeting illegal street racing.

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Chevy Chevelle History

Posted by rolandusa | Carburator | Thursday 29 January 2009 9:28 pm

The Chevrolet Chevelle is a mid-sized car from Chevy, first rolling off the assembly line in 1964. It was manufactured from 1964 through 1977 and was one of General Motors most triumphant cars. Chevelle models ranged from easy on the pocket family cars to convertibles and powerful coupes. The Malibu was at first the top trim level of the Chevelle line, and it replaced the Chevelle name entirely after 1977. The Chevelle chassis, based on the reengineered GM A platform, provided the platform for the Chevrolet Monte Carlo, a very successful model itself.

The Chevelle was anticipated to compete with the equally sized Ford Fairlane, and to return to the Chevrolet lineup a model comparable in size and concept to the popular 1955-57 models. Early drawing photos show what would eventually be the Chevelle wearing Nova nameplates, the name that was used for the top trim level in the smaller Chevy II series. From 1964-69, the Chevelle was the groundwork for the similar Beaumont, a re-trimmed model sold only in Canada by Pontiac dealers.

A two-door station wagon was available in 1964 and 1965 in the bottom-line Chevelle 300 series. Four-door hardtops, dubbed Sport Sedans, were available from 1966 through 1972. Two-door hardtops and convertibles were produced from 1964 to 1972, while four-door sedans and four-door wagons were offered throughout the entire run. In line with other Chevrolet series, the two-door hardtops were called Sport Coupes. An assortment of models of wagons was sold with exclusive nameplates: Nomad (1968-1972), Nomad Custom (1968), Greenbrier (1969-1972), Concours (1967-1972), and Concours Estate (1968-1972).

The El Camino, a utility pickup, was part of the Chevy lineup and, depending on the year, was available in the 300/300 Deluxe trim level, Malibu trim level and the one-year only SS396. The El Camino outlived its passenger car counterpart until its end in 1987.

The Chevelle underwent a redesign for the 1973 model year. The so-called “colonnade hardtop” styling featured frameless door glass and fixed “B” pillars. Rear windows on coupes no longer could be opened, no doubt encouragement from GM to purchase the increasingly popular optional air conditioning. The Front suspension was based on the Camaro and Firebird which greatly improved handling. Engine choices ranged from the 250 I6 to the venerable 454 V8. Hardened engine valve seats and hydraulic camshafts made these engines reliable for many miles, and allowed them to accept the increasingly popular unleaded regular gasoline. Cross flow radiators and coolant reservoirs that prevented air from entering the system prevented overheating. Swivel bucket seats and center console for automatic and manual shift cars were offered in every model as was the instrument gauge cluster. Power front disc and rear drum brakes were standard. Power accessories, air conditioning and AM/FM tape stereo were more prevalent these years and provided a pleasing drive. A power moon roof was an option in 1973 and 1975.

The station wagon, available in 6 or 9 passenger seating, featured a rear hatchback door which allowed for easier entry and loading. The Chevrolet El Camino and GMC Sprint were based on the Chevelle. Yearly design changes to the front and rear mark the aesthetic differences as in preceding years. The 1973 to 1977 Chevelles were top sellers for GM as was the Oldsmobile Cutlass, which used the same A-body platform.

The 1973 model offerings started with the top luxury Laguna series with its distinct urethane nose, followed by Malibu and then deluxe models. A Super Sport SS package was available for Malibu coupes and for the only time, station wagons. The Super Sport SS option included a black front grille, SS emblem on the interior and exterior, body side striping, rally wheels with white letter tires, F41 sport suspension with front and rear sway bars, and a 350 or 454 V8. A 4 speed Muncie transmission was available with 350 or 454 equipped cars on any model.

In 1974 the Laguna S3 coupe replaced the “Super Sport SS” as the sporty performance option on the Chevelle. The nomenclature S3 referred to sport and 3rd generation Chevelle. It sported a special urethane nose, body side striping, Laguna S3 emblem, rally wheels, 4 spoke steering wheel and F41 sport suspension with front and rear sway bars. Radial tires on 15″ wheels and radial tuned suspension provided road grip and retractable 3 point seat belts were introduced and still used in new cars today. A 400 engine was new this year. The 454 was the top engine and available with the Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 or Muncie 4 speed transmissions.

With the Laguna nameplate now bearing the sporty model in the Chevelle line, the top-line series for 1974 became the Malibu Classic, offered in sedan, coupe and station wagon models. Unlike the ’73 Laguna, the Malibu Classic used the same grille work as lesser Chevelle models but added a spring-loaded hood ornament. Inside, Malibu Classic featured luxurious interiors with notchback bench seats (or optional Strato bucket seats) upholstered in cloth or vinyl, carpeted door panels and wood grain instrument panel trim, and vertical opera windows on coupes or exterior wood trim on station wagons. Also for 1974, the base Chevelle Deluxe series was dropped, leaving the plain Malibu as the low-end series.

The 1975 Laguna S-3 debuted as a 1/2 year model in February and sported a new sloped front nose designed for NASCAR. H.E.I. or High Energy Ignition provided spark to the spark plugs with minimal maintenance and increased power. The larger distributor cap also provided better high RPM performance by decreasing the likelihood of the spark conducting to the wrong terminal. The 454 and Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 transmissions was available for the first half of the model year and then the 400 was the top engine choice. In 1976, the Chevelle was available with the new 5.0 liter 305 V8 the 350 and the 400. 1977 offered the Malibu Classic as the top model and the 350 was the top engine. A Chevelle S.E. or special edition was available and provided front and rear spoilers, rally wheels, special graphics and sport suspension. Only 50 or so were built. When GM downsized its intermediate models for 1978, the Chevelle name was dropped and all models took the Chevrolet Malibu name.

The 1973 to 1977 Chevelle was the top car in the NASCAR circuit in the 1970s. The car was so popular and successful on the track that Chevrolet developed a new front nose in 1975 that lead to the aerodynamic cars of today. The car dominated the field so much that NASCAR imposed a carburetor restrictor plate for all Laguna’s. Drivers that raced 1973 to 1977 Chevelles include Darrell Waltrip, Junior Johnson, Benny Parsons, Cale Yarborough, Bobby and Donnie Allison, Bobby Isaac, Lennie Pond, A.J. Foyt, Ricky Rudd, Dale Earnhardt and female racer Janet Guthrie.

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Street Racing in Corpus

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Thursday 29 January 2009 5:57 pm


A little fun in the streets of Corpus Christi TX.

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Memphis Street Racing 9-28-09 RaceVideoForums.com MellonTuni

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Thursday 29 January 2009 1:45 pm


Memphis Street Racing 9-28-09 RaceVideoForums.com MellonTuning.com Civette LS2 GTO Trailblazer SS Mustang Cobra Passat Firebird Formula T/A Z28 Supra 240 Mazda Protege Civic Vette

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Making the Most of Your Fuel Dollars

Posted by rolandusa | Carburator | Thursday 29 January 2009 12:31 pm

Fuel prices are fluctuating, but there is no doubt that the days of crude oil are on the decline, which means higher prices over time. So how can we conserve gas and make the most of our fuel dollars? According to HowToAdvice.com, here are 30 ways to start.


1. Avoid prolonged warming up of engine, even on cold mornings – 30 to 45 seconds is plenty of time.

2. Be sure the automatic choke is disengaged after engine warm up… chokes often get stuck, resulting in bad gas/air mixture.

3. Don’t start and stop engine needlessly. Idling your engine for one minute consumes the gas amount equivalent to when you start the engine.

4. Avoid “revving” the engine, especially just before you switch the engine off; this wastes fuel needlessly and washes oil down from the inside cylinder walls, owing to loss of oil pressure.

5. Eliminate jackrabbit starts. Accelerate slowly when starting from dead stop. Don’t push pedal down more than 1/4 of the total foot travel. This allows carburetor to function at peak efficiency.


6. Buy gasoline during coolest time of day – early morning or late evening is best. During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind – gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to “volume of measurement”.

7. Choose type and brand of gasoline carefully. Certain brands provide you with greater economy because of better quality. Use the brands which “seem” most beneficial.

8. Avoid filling gas tank to top. Overfilling results in sloshing over and out of tank. Never fill gas tank past the first “click” of fuel nozzle, if nozzle is automatic.


9. Exceeding 40 mph forces your auto to overcome tremendous wind resistance.

10. Never exceed legal speed limit. Primarily they are set for your traveling safety, however better gas efficiency also occurs. Traveling at 55 mph give you up to 21% better mileage when compared to former legal speed limits of 65 mph and 70 mph.

11. Traveling at fast rates in low gears can consume up to 45% more fuel than is needed.

12. Manual shift driven cars allow you to change to highest gear as soon as possible, thereby letting you save gas if you “nurse it along”. However, if you cause the engine to “bog down”, premature wearing of engine parts occurs.

13. Keep windows closed when traveling at highway speeds. Open windows cause air drag, reducing your mileage by 10%.

14. Drive steadily. Slowing down or speeding up wastes fuel. Also avoid tailgating – the driver in front of you is unpredictable. Not only is it unsafe, but if affects your economy, if he slows down unexpectedly.

15.Think ahead when approaching hills. If you accelerate, do it before you reach the hill, not while you’re on it.


16. Do not rest left foot on floor board pedals while driving. The slightest pressure puts “mechanical drag” on components, wearing them down prematurely. This “dragging” also demands additional fuel usage.

17. Avoid rough roads whenever possible, because dirt or gravel rob you of up to 30% of your gas mileage.

18. Use alternate roads when safer, shorter, straighter. Compare traveling distance differences – remember that corners, curves and lane jumping requires extra gas. The shortest distance between two points is always straight.

19. Stoplights are usually timed for your motoring advantage. By traveling steadily at the legal speed limit you boost your chances of having the “green light” all the way.

20. Automatic transmissions should be allowed to cool down when your car is idling at a standstill, e.g. railroad crossings, long traffic lights, etc. Place gear into neutral position. This reduces transmission strain and allows transmission to cool.

21. Park car so that you can later begin to travel in forward gear; avoid reverse gear maneuvers to save gas.

22. Regular tune-ups ensure best economy; check owner’s manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Special attention should be given to maintaining clean air filters… diminished airflow increases gas waste.

23. Inspect suspension and chassis parts for occasional misalignment. Bent wheels, axles, bad shocks, broken springs, etc. create engine drag and are unsafe at high traveling speeds.

24. Remove snow tires during good weather seasons; traveling on deep tire tread really robs fuel!

25. Inflate all tires to maximum limit. Each tire should be periodically spun, balanced and checked for out-of-round. When shopping for new tires, get large diameter tires for rear wheels. Radial designs are the recognized fuel-savers; check manufacturer’s specifications for maximum tire pressures.

26. Remove vinyl tops – they cause air drag. Rough surfaces disturb otherwise smooth air flow around a car’s body. Bear in mind when buying new cars that a fancy sun roof helps disturb smooth air flow (and mileage).

27. Auto air conditioners can reduce fuel economy by 10% to 20%. Heater fan, power windows and seats increase engine load; the more load on your engine, the less miles per gallon.

28. Remove excess weight from trunk or inside of car – extra tires, back seats, and unnecessary heavy parts. Extra weight reduces mileage, especially when driving up inclines.

29. Car pools reduce travel monotony and gas expense – all riders chip in to help you buy. Conversation helps to keep the driver alert. Pooling also reduces traffic congestion, gives the driver easier maneuverability and greater “steady speed” economy. For best results, distribute passenger weight evenly throughout car.

30. During cold weather watch for icicles frozen to car frame. Up to 100 lbs. can be quickly accumulated! Unremoved snow and ice cause tremendous wind resistance. Warm water thrown on (or hosed on) will eliminate it fast.


Install pressure regulator valve (sold in auto parts stores)… Use graphite motor oil… Beware of oil additives, regardless of advertising claims… Add Marvel Mystery Oil into gas fill-ups… Investigate fuel/water injection methods and products… combine short errands into one trip… Use special gas additives to prevent winter freezing of gas lines… convert your V8 engine over to a V4 – no special kits needed!!!

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are there any street racing games on ps2 that have bikes / motorcycles in them?

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Thursday 29 January 2009 7:41 am

julie w
i know that midnight club 3 has motorcycles, but do you know if there are any more?
or is midnight club 3 the only one?

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Memphis Street Racing 7-20-08 Mellon Tuning evo vs 980rwhp T

Posted by Lexus Fast | Street Racing | Thursday 29 January 2009 4:28 am


Memphis Street Racing 7-20-08 Mellon Tuning evo vs 980rwhp Turbo Mustang for #1 spot www.RaceVideoForums.com www.MellonTuning.com

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